Acid Bloom In Progress!

Hello friends!

Final collection is finally in full swing and I can’t believe how much work has gone into it! To date, I’ve done 4 different line ups as I begin to search for my style. Thanks to the help of my professor Ryan who is able to steer us in the right direction, I’ve turned my whole collection neon (my favourite colours!) and is full of bright pinks, yellows and purples!

I did my own print from a collage of watercolours, acrylic smudges, mainly inspired by the orchid (my favourite flower! such a strong beauty) and ink blot tests. Then we turned the colour up to become super saturated and we spilled paint over it!

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I squeegeed fabric paint onto the fabric and went crazy!
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Check out the plastic that was under the cloth while I was having fun!

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Today, I got moved to a room and had the chance to work on the floor which brings so much more energy out in me! I felt like Pollock dancing and painting on the fabric! Absolutely exciting!

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I’ll share more when I have the time to! We are about to start making our final looks this weekend, after making 6 toiles.

xx.

Lumiere; lessons learnt

development pages yuli-1Dear friends, it’s been too long since I’ve updated you on my latest project! Right after the last project on clothes for the blind ended, I left for a two week trip to Portugal and Spain over the Christmas break and literally hit the ground running after I returned.

Continue reading Lumiere; lessons learnt

The new Gucci

I break my hiatus to write about the new Gucci creative director and collection, simply because it does have an impact on my future and the future of fashion.

Gucci as a brand as been special to me because I did my first fashion internship at Gucci in Singapore. I spent a lot of time in the sample room examining and learning about luxury fashion and it had a great impact on me. In my mind, I began to form the luxury brands worked and saw how it operated with many locations worldwide.

After watching the new Fall 2015 womenswear show, I was filled with doubt and uncertainty. The new creative director, Alessandro Michele, to me has taken the path that Hedi Slimane did with Saint Laurent. Not only did he youthify the brand, as tasked since sales at Gucci were falling, but he designed a collection for a very young and skinny crowd. Holding on to Gucci’s 60s and 70s roots, Michele designed a soft and feminine collection full of frilly and billowy silhouettes tailored to the waist. Huge 70s inspired aviator tortoise shell glasses were on almost every model, adorned along with an artsy knit beret. This was a completely different Gucci that we’ve known- one that was very strong into the gender differences- sexy women and strong, masculine men. At the show yesterday, male models were mixed into the crowd and some female models looked like men. The whole gender-neutral concept was strong in this collection and just surprising for the brand.

NYT noticed that Michele was designing for the wearer, instead of designing from a concept which was usually the case. And that meant that a lot of the clothes were not exactly new, which I noticed too. Fur bedroom flats that appeared in the Simone Rocha show two seasons ago surfaced and were also combined with the classic Gucci brogues. In fact, one thing you always see at Gucci would be the luxurious sexy eveningwear closing the show but this time, it was completely different. The closing look featured a pair of red pants that hung off the model’s hips that looked much too low for the modern skinny pants lover. The show certainly presented the 70s very well but did it do well for Gucci? I’m not sure.

This then makes me wonder about the future of fashion. No doubt, there will be concept driven designers like Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen but is the future of luxury fashion only about selling straight off the runway? Designers like Nicholas Ghesquiere and Phoebe Philo also design for wearability but their collections are still concept driven with a stronger focus on construction and fit. Michele over here however, seems to be designing very simple clothes, much too simple for a luxury brand. To put it crudely, I even thought that Hedi Slimane’s clothes looked very much like the ones I could see in Bershka or Pull & Bear. The cut and fabrics are definitely different but somehow, I personally believe that fashion is about seeing something new and unique. It isn’t about producing clothes that has been done before or clothes that could be done easily by someone else.

So where exactly is fashion heading to? The battle between the bottom line and creativity continues.

Fittings

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It’s been an extremely tiring week. I’ve made two toiles this week in a span of 4 days to get it all fitted on my model, Lukas. While doing that, I’ve been busy making my final textiles for the garment I’ll be making. See the white dots in the sleeve? The sleeve will be filled with 4 panels that say “I am not blind”. It’d be pretty epic, I think! I’ve only finished one sleeve so far so I guess that is exactly what I’ll be doing tonight.

Welcome to fashion, where you’d be spending every waking moment doing something till you sleep and wake up to repeat the same routine again.

Strip it down to black

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Yesterday it hit me during my mid-term presentations that I was doing an all black collection. I must say, I love colour a lot. I can get a rush from seeing colour and for my 21st birthday present, I requested my mom to get me the pantone set which till today, is one of my most valuable gifts.

Then this quarter, I decided to try stripping down my strength in colour to doing an all black collection. A main reason for that is the nature of the collection. We were required to chose an ethnic group and match it with a sport. I eventually chose to do fishing and… blind people. I have interacted with the blind on a personal level and believe me, they are an ethnic group themselves! Although they do not have a specific geographic location, they have their own culture and language (braille).

Doing this collection exposed many of my flaws. It made me very stressed too, having to think about merging functionality with fashion. Most of the times, these two don’t meet very well. Fashion is usually seen as a form or something frivolous like decoration with no meaning while function serves a purpose. By choosing to look at fishing gear, doing a menswear collection and creating clothes for the blind, I got myself trapped in creating functional clothing which to be frank, looked absolutely like a robber’s get up in the night when it’s all black.

Moving forward, I have started to create some textures and prints in braille which I am excited to show you soon! This would keep the collection from looking like a robber’s wardrobe 🙂